Brake Pedal Extension Options
One common comment from new owners of Vulcan Classics with floorboards and Nomads is "I can't get my toes under the brake pedal! Well, you've come to the right place for solutions. Yes, there are several.
The simplest solution and one that is zero cost is to simply raise your brake pedal. Here's how you do that.
Note the current height of your brake pedal. Measure this with a ruler (best) or pack of cigarettes (if you've got em) or some other measuring tool. You'll need to know where you're starting from to determine whether you've fixed the problem. Now look under your right floorboard and note a retaining bolt for the brake pedal swivel. It's helpful but not necessary to remove the floorboard. Ok, "remove" that bolt. If you don't take it all the way out you're not going anywhere with this here project. Once out you can begin prying the swivel away from the crank assembly you've just removed the bolt from. Note, there are a couple of springs connected to this thing, one large one small. Check and note where the large one is connected because it's likely to pop off of the upper post. Now, wiggle or pry (or pray) the pedal assembly all the way off of that crank assembly. When it came free the crank probably went "pop" and the spring fell down. Don't worry about it. Grab that crank and re-assemble it to the pedal assembly moving the pedal assembly "up" one notch from where it started. (If you didn't measure you're going to be doing some trial and error at this point) Push the assembly back into the crank and sit on the bike. Does the pedal clear your toe? Is it too far up to be comfortable? If not/not then put the pedal back where it started, button everything up and consider option #2.
Buttoning up. Got the pedal where you want it or back where it started? Great. Reconnect the small spring to the brake light switch if it fell off. The large spring is a little dicier if you decided not to remove your floorboard. I've found two ways to re-attach the spring. 1. Loop some wire around the part of the spring that slips over the mounting peg. Pull up and slip the spring over the peg then just pull the wire out. 2. Lay on your back, take a flat blade screwdriver, push it vertically with the spring on the screwdriver tip and force it over the little peg it fell off of. Those who removed the floorboards just lever the spring onto the peg with a small screwdriver. Put the bolt back in that you removed from the crank and go for a ride.
The entire process takes about the same amount of time it probably took you to read this and a lot less time than it took to write it.
Go to your local Kawasaki dealer and look at the right side of the Vulcan Drifter. Note the brake pedal. Yes, it's chrome which is a good thing right off the bat. It is also about an inch and a half longer than yours. If you like the looks you can order the Drifter Brake Pedal Part # 430011432 from your dealer or several aftermarket suppliers. Mine came from Ron Green Motorsports. It's a direct replacement using the instructions in option 1.
Click Thumbnails For Larger Image
Compare Stock Vs Drifter
Compare Stock Vs Drifter
Drifter Pedal On Nomad
Note: brake pedal pad shown with mounted brake arm is Kuryakyn "Longhorn Brake Pedal" part # 8027. The left side size comparison photo shows mark already made for drilling (left side black spot) to accept this pad. In addition to the supplied bolt I used double sided tape to make sure the part wouldn't shift.
After market brake pedals. At this writing I'm only aware of one though there are certainly other manufacturers cranking these out. The source I know of is "Scootworks" Just follow the sites links to "Motorcycle Parts" and then "Kawasaki". Members of the Vulcan forum who've ordered this piece report it's a very nice piece of work. So far I've not seen any reports of problems with interference between this piece and after market highway pegs.
If you've read about another option or have found one yourself please let me know the details so they can be posted here.