Another Key Relocation Idea
Using a Kuryakyn V-Shield Horn Cover
This is what the part looks like out of the box. A very nice piece. The slots on the left and right go all the way through. It's supposed to be a horn cover after all. Obviously this can only be done after you've removed the stock air cleaner and mounted an aftermarket air cleaner on the right side of your Vulcan.
What You'll Need
1- Kuryakyn VShield Cover part # 7717 (includes brackets for attaching to 1500/1600 Vulcans)
Or any horn cover of your choice.
1- Very sharp 1.25" hole saw
Assorted plastic or metal spacers and longer bolts than supplied in kit. If you don't have a 'can o' old hardware' in your garage then you'll be making a trip to the hardware store but don't go yet, you'll have to measure a couple of things first.
Blue Locktite (suggested)
It would be nice to have a drill press but you can do this with an ordinary hand drill.
How To Do It
1. Remove your gas tank. I know, just thinking about it can cause angst for those who've never removed the tank especially on FI bikes but believe me once you've done it you'll wonder what all the fuss was about. If you've never removed your tank check This Gadget Page for details.
2. Remove your ignition switch. To do this pry the decorative cap off the top of the bolt and remove the Allen head bolt. Trace the wire up to the left side of the frame where you'll find a six pin plug. (see picture at right) Pull the plug apart and extract the switch/wire.
3. Place the key side of your switch against the back of the V-Shield at the 'top' of the "V" and use a magic marker or pencil to trace around the outer edge of your switch. If your part is the same as mine you'll notice the mold mark is exactly in the center of your circle. That makes it really simple to center your drill.
4. Tape the outside (chrome) of the V-Shield with masking tape. A couple of layers will do nicely and make sure the tape is down flat and tight, no wrinkles or bubbles. The purpose is to prevent the chrome from chipping or flaking.
5. Take a deep breath and get ready to drill holes in your brand new $50 part. Lay the V-Shield on a padded surface so you don't scratch it and drill a pilot (small) hole from back to front so you can see the center of your hole from the front. Now, using your 1.25" hole saw (use a brand new one so you know it's sharp) drill your large hole from the front. DO NOT PUSH the drill. Just let it work it's way very slowly through the chrome and casting. You don't want to create any more heat than necessary. I am not responsible if you chip the chrome.
6. Once the large hole is finished, place the ignition switch in the back of the V-Shield and mark where the lower hole will be drilled to mount the switch. Use the same process, drilling first back to front then front to back using a very sharp drill. The size you use may depend on bolts you have handy. I found a 1 11/16" bolt worked perfectly.
7. When finished drilling you should have something that looks like this Note the 1" plastic spacer that I trimmed to about 7/8". You'll want to play with this a little so the switch isn't recessed into the V-Shield but isn't protruding too much either. Do lots of 'test fits' before a final assembly using a drop of blue locktite on the nut.
8. If you haven't done so already (and assuming you're using the V-Shield as shown) attach the horn cover mounting bracket to your engine but reverse the vertical portion so it angles 'back' toward the engine instead of outward as shown in Kuryakyn's instructions. This will place the cover much closer to the engine and away from your leg. Put your assembly against the Kuryakyn mounting bracket and you'll find there's a little bit of interference between the back of the ignition switch and the bracket. Add another spacer (about 1/2") to the one that came with the kit to take care of this and test mount your new part.
9. Once you're sure you have the correct length spacers and bolt for attaching the V-Shield put a drop of blue locktite on the bolt and assemble (don't trust lock washers on a bike).
10. Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry the female side of the ignition switch wiring away from the frame and re-route it down toward your newly located switch. Plug it in and tidy things up with zip-ties. Your final assembly will look like the picture at right when it's ready for mounting. BTW the mounting frame is chromed, it isn't rusty. That's a reflection from my garage floor.
11. Mount the cover and switch assembly to the bracket, reinstall gas tank and seat
12. Go ride