So, you want to do your own custom Marbilized Paint Job but you're scaired? Don't be! Follow these instructions to the letter and you'll have a ride that is truly different! If you don't have all of the equipment listed or the time to do this you can always print these instructions and take to a local body shop.
First, the supplies that you will need.
2 quarts of good quality clear coat.
2 cans of activator for the clear coat paints. The brand I used has a 4:1 mix ratio.
1 can of aerosol primer to paint over factory lines if any. This is the line between two tone paint jobs.
1 quart of “House of Kolors” Marblizer paint. This is what makes the whole thing work. It comes in about 5 or 6 different colors. Red, silver, purple, blue, and a couple more.
1 quart of black base coat. This will be your background (Canvas) of the marble look. The Marblizer paint works best with black and I think white also..
2 packs of good quality 400 grit wet or dry sand paper. I used 3M. 10 to 15 sheets should be in the pack.
1 pack of 1500 grit wet or dry sand paper.
1 can of acetone or MEK.
1 roll of Saran Cling Wrap. The bigger, the better.
Depending on brand names, this should run you no more than about $120 to $140 total. You can use different brand names of your choice on all this, however I would stay with the “House of Kolors” Marblizer. I don’t know if there is another company that makes it anyway.
Step by step process:
1. Remove all sheet metal from the bike. Fenders, gas tank, and side panels if you have them or if you want them painted.
2. Take off all parts that you wish not to paint. For example, rubber grommets from the rear fender or the fuel petcock, etc.
3. Using the 400 grit paper, lightly wet sand all surfaces to be painted. Keep the surface wet at all times. This is the pint where you will say, “what the h*#@ am I doing to my bike”? You are just scuffing the surface, not really sanding. Don’t go to deep. You just want the water to have a “Sheeting action” and the surface. This is how the base coat will lay on the paint.
4. Use the acetone or MEK and a clean paper towel and wipe down the surface to eliminate possible oil from finger prints.
5. Spray the primer along the factory paint line the separates the two paints if it a 2 tone paint job. This helps to level the line.
6. Now you ready to paint. Use a good quality automotive style paint gun preferably with a regulator on it. If not on the gun, than at least on the hose going to it. Use between 40 to 45 pounds of pressure. Pour the base coat in the can on the paint gun and mix in reducer per instructions.
Now you ready to spray base coat. All you need to spray is one full coat. Just enough to color the surface. This will be your background. This paint is dull and drys very quickly. About 10 to 20 minutes. No need to make sure this coat goes on perfectly because you are going to cover it anyway.
7. While the base coat is drying, prepare the paint gun for the Marblizer paint. Rinse with reducer (or something like that) and spary a little through the gun. Now you ready to for the fun part. The Marblizer. Spray on the Marblizer in a fairly wet coat. If it runs, it doesn’t matter. You’re just going to mess it up anyway. Allow 1 minute cure time and then pull out the Saran Wrap in one hand, holding the box with the roll in it in the other hand, apply the film of Saran Wrap directly on the wet paint and cover as much of the area as possible. Now tear off the excess. And repeat until all the freshly painted surface is covered with Saran wrap. Now gently pat it all down with your hand open flat. Once this is done, pull on the Saran wrap up. This whole process needs to be done in less than 3 minutes. You don’t want the paint to cure too much so it can run. If you have a pattern that you don’t like in a certain area. Ball up a piece of that Saran wrap and “Blot” the area to blend in. It should blend with no problems. This is also the time you can make you own designs. Don’t get to carried away though because the paint is very fast to dry and you will start picking the paint up and mess it up. It makes the best designs when it’s wet.
8. Now that you’ve done all the parts and you’re satisfied with the pattern you created, it time to put on the clear coats. DO NOT SAND before the clear coat.
9. Prepare the gun again and pour in the clear coat and activator as per the instructions. You’re going to spray 3 coats in the following coverage. 1. fine misting coat just to “tack” up the surface. 2. A medium coat. 3 Lastly, a “wet coat.
10. You’re done for the day. Clean Spray gun. Let dry overnight.
11. The next day, wet sand the surfaces with 400 grit again. Again, just to lightly scuff the surface. Make sure the water is sheeting again. No beading.
12. Spray 3 more coats just like you did the previous day. Let dry overnight again. Clean gun.
Don’t worry too much about the clear running. But try to keep it to a minimum. Also, it will be impossible to keep the trash out of the final coat. Not to worry.
13. Store somewhere fairly warm for a couple of days.
This is the tricky part. You might want to consult a professional for this. Now we are going to sand out the runs and trash and polish the final coat of clear coat. Using the 1500 grit, wet sand again to smooth out the surface and prepare it for buffing. Once again, you want to see a sheeting action with the water. Once you are satisfied with the sanding and trash smoothing, but out with the buffing compound. Using a buffing machine is best and be careful not to burn the paint. Buff to a glass finish and you done!!!! This is by far the tricky part of the re-paint. Once again, seeking professional help for this will be well worth it.
You’re done! Do not use any wax for 4 to 6 weeks. Wax will trap the natural breathing of the paint as it cures.