TallAnnie's "No Lightbar" Solution For Classics


TallAnnie

Many Vulcan Classic riders have seen the Kirk's No Lightbar solution for the Nomad and wished they could do the same with their Vulcan Classic.  The problem has been with the one-inch narrower fork on the Classic that made it impossible unless the owner went with a smaller than standard housing.  TallAnnie to the rescue!  She has created a very simple bracket that allows mounting spot/fog lights on the Classic avoiding the expense of a commercial lightbar. 

What You'll Need

1- Vulcan Classic with stock turn signal mounts  

2- Spotlights.  Parts shown below are 4.5 inch spots purchased from "BKRider store" on Ebay for $24 each.  Part number C01050295.  Spots are available in many styles and over a huge price range.

1- Piece of aluminum or stainless steel flat stock available at any hardware store

2- Spacers available at most hardware stores

1- 12 V 30 amp relay and wiring. 

1- Optional switch


How To Do It

  We start with brackets. as shown at left  They're very simple to make from your choice of materials.  The pieces shown are aluminum, stainless steel would work great too.  To create the brackets grab a piece of heavy cardboard.  Place the cardboard on the turn signal bar and draw the size you need freehand.  You can get the angle by holding your accessory light against the cardboard.  There's going to be a little trial and error here which is why you're using paper.  Once you have your pattern transfer it to metal.

 

 


 

I took the windshield off the bike and then center punched (pic right) and drilled matching holes in the OEM chrome turn signal bar near each turn signal.  (The diagonal pattern came from observing where there are obstructions under the piece).   A test fit or two before drilling will go a long way here.

 

 

I placed gasket material between the chrome and the new aluminum brackets and then realized that I didn't have enough clearance underneath to put the nut on my bolts... :(.   I found some short self tapping screws the right size and mounted the brackets snug and tight down on the gasket.   If it ever loosens up, I would have to move these holes a bit to use locknuts, but the bracket would cover that.   Seems really tight to me.

 
 

Now I assembled each light in its bracket and snugged them down.  I slipped heat shrink over the blue hot wires to hide the color and to provide some protection.  I routed the wires along the turn signal wire route from each side up into the headlight bucket..

 

 

 

Now ....where the heck was power ?   On the schematic I saw that there is a 10a fused 'aux" set of connectors on my bike.   Somewhere else in gadgetland I read that mine (1500) is under the gas tank....*sigh*.   So....off came the gas tank.  If you own a 1600 the aux power is in the headlight bucket.  As I raised the front of the tank after all the disconnections made, I saw the blue/white wire .....so I simply propped the tank up with a 2x4 piece of wood enough to work on the connector without having to unconnected the gas lines further back.  I found that a round crimp type wire connector slips perfectly and very tightly into the round female ends of the OEM aux connector....so I ran a wire from there up to the headlight bucket..... tie wrapping it to the big wire bundle on the left side of the bike....and then I reassembled the gas tank. 

 
After that it was just a matter of wiring it all up.   I used the low beam hot wire to pull in the relay (running light wire is another option if you don't need the lights switched or if you'll be providing your own separate switch)....and let the relay switch the aux power circuit thru to the new lamps.   It is very strongly suggested you run a separate ground wire from the spotlights to the black/yellow accessory (ground) wire or any black/yellow wire in the headlight bucket.  Without that wire you'll be grounding your lights to the steering which means all the amperage has to pass through the steering head bearings.  That can both pit the bearings and will add resistance to the flow of power.  Your lights will be dimmer and can burn out sooner than those that are properly grounded. 

I righted the bike, aimed them at the garage door and aligned them and tightened everything down.  Overall, it took me about 2 hours....(I had never removed a gas tank before)....but I love the look now ! and have the pleasure of knowing I made it myself !